A day with Needled Fairy Studio's

The day begins with a blank sheet of paper, a series of measurements are laid out as the base grid and square up or down as needed. I use a alot of design tools, from French curves to a right angle ruler. The creation process take 4 to 6 hours based on the level of difficulty. As the pattern is slowly created, ease is added for wear comfort and the ability to move in the garment comfortably. There is no seam allowance, and it must be added after the pattern is complete. When drawn it is checked by measurement ,your math must be correct or it can create a Real Pain when it is  transfer to the muslin. The mock up is the next stage for accuracy, This is how the creation of the pattern is done. 

                                                     

Now the tailoring skills come in. On the Muslin, before moving to the fashion fabric, to create the piece a bias cut summer dress in this case. Once the alterations to the Muslin is done it is now on to the fashion fabric and layout, Which in this case, is different due to using the natural stretch of the fabric as a design aid. Bias work was popular during the twenties, it allows fabric to cling, much like spandex today. The art of bias work is not used so much today due to the difficult of sewing a bias garment.  Many examples of Bias work today carry a larger price tag due to the work required.



base radial design with measurement chart



  Bias work must hang for 24 or 48 hours in order to grow,allowing for stretch.

Homework Submission

Okay so the new Books came in and I think I have met my match. The Master Tailoring course is Tough! Each of the lessons build on the last one, no skipping over any page. All of the math problems are as complex as some engineering problems. And I for one was never big on Algebra or word problems. The Radial drafting program, helped however it was a plug in, and no word problems,which might be why I was moved in to this class. 

 Now for the first time since Sept I have to think. Mom taught me a hell of alot more that I ever dreamed!! So now I have spent the last week reading and going over the diagrams in the book. This is going to be quite the challenge for me. So I did the standard Bodice sloper, it was a general sloper however being an American taught to work in inches not centemeters, oh crap!!!! Thank God for a Smart phone Yeah Apple!!!  So away I went with pencil, paper, and a tape measure and conversion app, Boy was I shocked when the Math threw me across the room and step on me! Oh No not happening. I am a Tailor in my own right. This isn't happening... centermeters or not>>> Shoulder way off, neck line just way to small, so what did I do? I got up this Morning AND  started again, yep from scratch. Had a friend redo my measurements, and this time I thought I had it until I went to the shoulder line. Crap here I go again. So no panic this time, I reread the instrutions out loud yes, out loud to my self and then it hit me, There are word problems in the word problems, that when speeding though the instructions I missed them or should I say hints, since it did not come out and ask for the shoulder measurement. Okay so I go back and add the unask for measurement and Sucess is staring me in the face 4 hours later, I could have drafted a standard sloper in a half hour on my own, but not in centemeters and not so well fitted,  there were no alterations what so ever. Okay so where does does this lead, to the next lesson which is now adding 4 blanks, that should become the skirt. Did the measurements again and sewed the seams, laid it into the bodice, to a Perfect and I do mean Perfect fit. Okay so the math is tough and that is because this is a total new system to me , however I am total amazed at the accurancy of this method and the fit. Mom would be proud and fusssing at me for not expanding my mind on the math, but that will take awhile.  So the other lesson was: Define where you live by a skirt of any styleline, I really enjoyed this one and yes I had the fabric which was to be something else, but I went a little further by matching the top from my everyday wear and then went hunting for matching accessories. I hope you will find inspiration in the photos.


Linen Sheath Dress



Fashion Trends for 2011

So here we are in 2011, wondering  where we are all headed, and since Money and stress affect fashion,  I thought I would share what caught my eye out of Milan and Paris. The first thing I notice is the influence of  a past eras 1940 and 1950. The gowns shown here are quite apparent by the draped lines in blue and in the skirting styles and the elegant Feminine accents as well as the fuller skirting. Lace is showing up to this party as well,gloves anyone?

So Vintage is really begining  to show up in all kinds of designers styles. From the shirt dress to swing , it is good to be a women again, I think there has been a lot of rediscovering not in a bad way

The Jewelry this season is very vintage in style, metal makes a come back and bangles are back. Bright colors are quite apparent on the runway including, Orange Lip Stick, yes Orange is showing up in many ways

The shoes are just as eye candy as some of these others, however when shoes are your weakness,

 Who can say NO to these , and of course the pumps are to die for.

I think fashion will be fun again,

 yet very Lady-ish, allowing some real fun for a day to day

       colors for the season hmmm...................

So this is what I have seen and I am excited about the possiblies of this New Year.

so with excitment for the coming year, Dress Darling Dress.....................