The disapearence of Paula

Okay So I fell off the world for the last week, I am buried in custom work, and have two school projects due before my first show of the year. It is amazing just how much sewing I have done in the last week and have 4 deadlines in 5 days, still have trims to do on some and hems always hems. The Great helper to all  is Morpheus which seems to have forgot to drop by and take me to take place of rest and dreams ,which hasn't helped me feel any better about my blessing. Then there is the clients who think all I have to do is wiggle my nose,and poof it is magically done. I wish I could make them understand I can't sew 12 hours a day every day. But Alas .......
So with that said, I have been knee deep in steel boning and busk, build a wonderful custom corset with a fantasy theme , and it is amazing, still have some finish work on that one. Then there is the 1893 Ladies walking coats 2 yes I said  2 and each is unique. Then we have the 1790's Lades gown with panniers and stomacher which has started to take shape quite nicely, it will be ready for the second fitting around the 27 or so. The fantasy bodice and velvet skirt are ready for their final on the 27th ,and then  a day off.  I will post pictures as I finish off the hems and such  but I still am on my sewing Island and will be until I am OK where I am on the list. I haven't forgot my friends, they just will have to be patience and wait until I feel like I can breathe, or feel my fingers. As ever sewing my way thur this world,one stitch at a time LPASF

Thursday's Thought...

Thursday's Thought...: "

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Lack of sleep on the mind

Okay, this is now a week of no sleep or little sleep and of course sleep interupted by 2 loving cats that have no sense of time, so was this the cause of the going into old boxes of fabric that my late mother in law gave me at 3 am. Or was it the new project we were giving before break????????  We have been discussing the theory of fashion and influences, during class . We have been covering the pre-war and War era fashions, which has my head buzzing due to all the great designers of the time. You just can not love the era of Hollywood and the stars of that time. Okay, so we have a a set of guide lines set out by the WPB or The War Production Board. They were put into action in April 1942, this will shape all direction of fashion during the decade. The General Limitation Order L-85 was deemed as  necessary to promote national defense and to the eliminating nonessential details and stated the following:
 Short narrow skirts with a hem circumference no larger than 72 inches.Jackets no longer than 25 inches
Hems no deeper than 2 inches.No more than one pocket per blouse and no patch pockets on jackets or coats
No trouser cuffs or pleats.no vest with suit
Belts no larger than 2inches high. No sleeves of bias cut ,Dolmen or leg of mutton .
Exemptions were given to infants,toddler,bridal apparel, maternity wear,and people of "abnormal size", this also applied to Ladies over 5 foot 8 inches, also costumes, burial gowns ,and vestments for religious and judiciary persons.
 Designers were force to work to these rules or face fines or jail.  Mr Ward of  "Montgomery Wards" Dept Store was jailed over these rules. Fine fabrics have started  disappearing,The nylon and silk are being use for the service. The creation of rayon and acetate are now available for cilvians. The Wool fabrics have labels for content for the first time. Cottons has had restrictions placed on them.
So with all of this, I now have to create a Business or Day dress with jacket , for the era of 1942 . We do not have to use period fabric, however we must be considerate of those details,and this:
 "This pledge" that was issued to the consumer by the Dept of Price Administration:
      As a consumer,in the total defense of democracy, I will do my part to make my home,my community my country ready, efficient,and strong by fighting the war with scissors,needle and thread.

                                              silk wool blend from England

                                     Purple rayon blend challis with the Italian boucle wool

So after my late nite digging, these are the fabrics, I have come up with, silk,wool blend an Italian boucle woven wool and a Rayon blend challis all with a purple theme, thanks to surfing vintage shoe sites. Damn websites get you in trouble every time. I love heels and this was an era in which they really began to become an item.  I have drafted my pattern and in the coming days , you will get updates as I put it all together LPASF

The Lestat Shirt returned for the Evening

Spent the day working on one of my oldest pieces in my folio. I have been making this style since 1995, many call it a Pirate shirt , however it is my thought of what my favorite Vampire  would have wore . Through the years this shirt has been ask for by many names , and used for all kinds of events. I have always thought the period of the 17th century was a dream for the gentlemen of the era. I think we have lost something when all the rage is a tee shirt and bagging jeans. Elegant is not a word used for a man to day and yet so many fell for Lestat. I dont think it was just the Vampire thing. I really believe the Clothing makes the man or at least creates the mystery that so many of my clients long for. Via La Mystery!!!!!

This week homework submissions

Spend the day sewing thu the hand basting ,and starting the assemble process, The dress is a 1950 day dress, I choose a  lightweight cashmere /wool blend in red. It has always has been one of my fav's and well here in Florida, it has cooled down to think of warmer fabrics that I don't get to work with very often. I have not decide whether I am going to change the design from the full skirt to the pencil skirt I think both will work, I just think that a wiggle skirt might be the ultatament to the bodice design. The bodice is total bias cut with darts every where including the collar,shoulders bust, sleeves,and and back ,the skirt has six darts as well.  This was very time consuming with the basting and sewing I have not done a really serious press job as of yet and still need to work on hems topstitching, the interior hand work and finish the skirt with what choice I make to the style of the skirt but, at the end of today I put it on the "dummie" and said I was done with this day. Pleased with as far as I had gone and a sense of creation

Review of Fashions

So Did you see Vicki C's Fashion Show or the Grammy Awards ?  I watch the Vicki C and have to say I was not only impressed with the Stage craft, we all are in love with the wings. But what really drew my attention was the first line up," Gingham" ,yep the always little known check pattern  fabric that many of us are using for mocking up toiles.  The use of this lovely little fabric just blew me away, the history of Gingham isn't known to many, useless you a Woman from the depression era. It was created for Feedsacks for animals,it came in differnent sized bags. Many women of the time made dresses from these, even curtains , tableclothes etc. This era was a Make Do, Use Up, or Do with out time. Fashion  has kind of come full circle considering the state of the ecomony. There was a Gingham girl ad campain when the fabric was promoted, it led to dolls printed on the bags as well as apron patterns. Now we are in the middle of a vintage resergence of fashion of the 40's and the fiftys . I have to give cudo's to Vicki C"s  for making ginghan a full attention getter . They have shown that if it ain't broke don't fix it, and that the poor forgotten Little Gigham girl  is still alive and well,  just alot sexier!
The one designer at the Grammy's that got my attention isn't a really known Designer to us however she has a way about her that said Hello I am Definely here. I am talking about Mrs Tina Knowles, most of us aren't aware she has a bigger job in life. She is Beyonce's' Mom, and the green sparkling gowns, she build for Destiny's Child were Beautiful, sexy and graceful. Of course One only had to wipe their mouth over Julia Robert's gown  it was "vintage" Valentino and well we haven't had those kind of designers in a long time. One could only dream. I write this because I believe we have stop dressing as elegantly as we could . So on Dec 17th I challenge{ ask } everyone to pick something that says something about you as a woman, and for my guy friends  No JEANS!!! OR TEE SHIRTS,  pick some upscale and just be aware how you get treated, you might get a suprise. May we always create beautiful things, but to wear them That's Class     LPASF

                                                          GINHAM BEACH WEAR
                                                                          1949

                                                     Vintage recreation of a Butterick pattern
                                                      that almost shut the pattern company down
                                                       due to the demand for the Pattern

Making time



Home work 1949 pants and vest

 Well this week has been really busy, School work, customs, show in 5wks, Where is that extra 5 days I dream about ? I have a 1895 corset waiting for a new busk  Please Mr Post man hurry that package up. I have a 17th century gown waiting for fitting,tomorrow and a 1870's walking coat to be trimmed out. Sometimes I hate the holiday interuption, stopping to Decorate, but I have learn that with out, outside interuptions I would be sleeping at my machine. It seems that my days are fast diappearing , I just  recieved an invite to post my vintage work on Sense Of Fashion, but without those extra days....
 I spend last nite reading about the Era of the of the 1893, which is the next set of home work a skirt and bodice/blouse combo done in quater and half nch scale drafting . Math that desingers use in Fashion Design.



My Renassainctione work

 I have a degree, which I work for as a single mom , now the kids are grown and it seems that it is even harder and now it seems to be harder to be even more organised with this. I think it will get better but will it be before I pull my hair out. I decide to share pictures of  my work so those of you who haven't had the pleasure can see what I do for a living  So until my next post  Keep creating, We are falling behind their rate of Destrution LPASF